Traditional Inn along the Nakasendo

During the Edo era, there was two main routes from Kyoto to Edo (Tokyo).  The lower, most widely know route, was the Tokaido.  The other, more interior route, was called the Nakasendo.  Preserved along a portion of the Nakasendo are a series of old post towns that keep that old Edo charm focusing on traditional wooden architecture and small shops.

Narai, is one of the premier towns along this route and a great escape for Tokyo’s urbanites that really want to slow it down, way down.  The town itself, features only one primary lane about 500 meters long with wooden storefronts featuring unique overhanging eves.  Accommodation wise there are only a handful of 旅館 (ryokan, traditional inn) and homestays along the way, so I was naturally a bit excited when I found out me, my wife, and her mother and father would be staying at Echigoya, the oldest ryokan in Narai at over 200 years old and nine generations of family owned proprietorship.

An inn as old as Echigoya focuses on simplicity, quietude, and attention to detail.  No distractions here.  After checking in we are served green tea  and then are free to enjoy the sites and sounds of the wooden home.  After taking a soak in its small cypress wood bath and changing into yukata our course dinner is brought to us as each course is explained in detail.  I particularly enjoyed the koi sashimi with a miso paste sauce.  Following this we retired to our futon prepared rooms and fell asleep to the creeking of the wooden floors.

The morning breakfast is light but meticulously prepared.  Unfortunately we are out the door to our train by 8 AM… like most guests, a one night stay is usually the max (at around 20,000 Yen a night/per person one can see why).

Spending that whole day on train rides and exploring other post towns en route to Nagoya, we are happy to finally get on the Shinkansen to head back to Tokyo, and what seems like a bizarro world after only a day and a half in “old Japan”.

 

Tsukiji Fish Market

Even though it is often on the list of top ten things to do in Tokyo (hence, I assumed to be a bit overdone), I found Tsukiji Fish Market to be a great experience for the senses, especially if you are a lover of fish. Although many people visit ridiculously early (5 AM) in order to catch the market in full swing, we decided to forgo that and instead arrived mid morning. We wandered around the shops adjacent to the main market and sampled some sushi from one of the more crowded sushi shops 寿司屋. We tried some salmon roe(いくら), tuna (まぐろ), scallop(ホタテ), and fried egg (たまご) – fried egg being the traditional way to test the freshness and the quality of the sushi shop/ chef. The fish mongers in the markets surrounding the main building offer some good deals and freshness is basically insured.

 

Tsukiji also is home to Japan’s first Yoshinoya. Yoshinoya, for those outside Japan, is the quick and easy way to get gyudon (牛丼), or a bowl of shaved beef on top of rice. This Yoshinoya was relocated from the original fish market area after it was destroyed in the 1923 Earthquake. The signage and interior are notably different from other chains you see around Japan, preserving the old-time charm of the original Yoshinoya. No coin fed meal ticket machines here!

Mt. Mitake

Experiencing Mt. Mitake in a downpour! This should be tops on everyone’s agenda. Why? It clears them out, them being that two legged nuisance that makes their presence known so persistently everywhere one goes in this country. I don’t say these things in ignorance to the fact that this country has a high population density (especially in the Tokyo Metro Region) or with the delusion that that will change in any meaningful way in the future (despite hyped up reports of population decline). If the population suddenly decreases to about 10 million or less, then we might be on to something. Until then, I will enjoy Mt. Mitake in the rain, a kind of natural reservation/hold that is placed on the forest in your name. A 4-5 hour long morning downpour offers the perfect opportunity to escape. It also helps the lower streams one follows on the return loop really fill up with water.

Summer Festival

 

Motosumiyoshi’s annual summer festival (natsumatsuri, 夏まつり) was held August 27th and 29th.  We made a couple quick pit-stops, enjoyed some yakitori (chicken skewers, 焼き鳥), perused the festivities, watched a couple omokuji (portable shrines, おみこし) carry themselves by, and generally didn’t stick around too long.  It got pretty crowded around the shrine these few days, but it was nice to see and taste some street food (something that is unfortunately harder to find in Japan compared to less health code conscious Asian nations).