Mt. Okusu – Zushi

Sometimes building up the motivation to hike a mountain in the Tokyo area is tough.  Not the hikes themselves, though they can be challenging, but the often extremely early wake up times necessary to catch the train to the mountain.  This had been a problem for the past couple weekends for me and my wife.  We would prepare everything the night before, set our alarms for 6:30 AM or so… and then end up hitting the snooze until well into mid-morning before we realized that the planned day-hike wasn’t going to happen, leaving us relatively inactive for the weekend.  In order to prevent this we decided on a hike a little closer to home, slightly shorter in overall distance, but with enough elevation and great views.  大楠山(Okusuyama) in 逗子 (Zushi) was our destination, and even though we didn’t leave our doorstep until almost 11:00 AM, we new this hike was doable.  We had done it before last early autumn.

Getting to this one is a little tricky… first after making your way to Yokohama, you need to take the JR Yokosuka Line to Zushi (one stop past Kamakura).  One good thing about our mid morning departure, is it got us in Zushi just in time for a good lunch before we made our climb.  Our favorite place thus far is a soba joint called りおう (Rioh) that has awesome sets, and a quiet mood.  I opted for the cold soba set that came with a variety of vegetables, tempura, and an awesome azuki bean mousse.

After indulging in that we caught a bus in front of the station (#5,6,7, and others) and took a half hour ride stopping at 前田橋 (Maedabashi) and began our walk from there.  First, the path takes you along an awesome creek bed with well maintained stepping stones and freshly mulched trails.  After about a kilometer, the ascent of 大楠山 begins and its a steady climb up a well manicured trail (3 km), until you reach the weather station at the top (where some great views can be seen of Yokosuka in the distance).  And once you reach the summit its a smooth decline down a road into a small little town where you can catch a bus back to Zushi.

The hike is made even more pleasant by the lack of foot traffic along the trail. Mt. Okusu doesn’t have the draw of Mt. Mitake or Mt. Takao, so you can really enjoy the peace of mind that affords.  Also, the bus ride to and from the trail head is filled with awesome views. You head through Hayama, which is kinda like a lesser known Kamakura, with tons of cafes and surfers. If you look across the bay you might catch a great view of snow capped Mt. Fuji when the weather is clear(especially in the morning)

All in all, a good day hike.  Most of our hikes are taken using this Japanese guide book, by the way – Tokyo Mini Hike  東京近郊 ミニハイク.

Here is an Okusuyama(or Ogusuyama depending on who you ask) hiking map.

Book Review: Steve Jobs – Walter Isaacson

Books with this much hype don’t usually appeal to me.  There may have been some sort of collective unconscious peer pressure at work here, urging me to put this book on my Christmas list.  What is more interesting is that I am not really an Apple guy, I only own one iPod that I bought almost a decade ago and have used a Windows PC for as long as I can remember.  So really I read this book out of curiosity.  I wasn’t interested in any detailed, month by month review of Apple’s development or product releases, as I am not that much a cultist of the brand.

Thankfully, Isaacson’s biography does not do this.  And despite the hardbacks bulky appearance, the book flows relatively quickly.  Jobs life and it’s development alongside Apple move along without getting bogged down by delving too deeply into every single product development, focusing instead on the game changers and Job’s overarching philosophies, while instances of Jobs personality (good, but mostly bad) are dropped liberally throughout.

Much has already been written about Job’s “reality distortion field” – his ability to force superhuman feats of engineering and design to be accomplished through the power of his own will and his knack for blocking out all things (people, emotions, other ideas) that could impede his progress.  This idea is discussed at length everywhere in the book.  So too, is Jobs bipolar attitude towards everyone and everything: crap/or incredible, a shithead/ or a genius.  There was no gray areas when it came to Steve Jobs judgement of people or products.  However, Isaacson refers to these traits so relentlessly that it almost becomes unbearable by the end of the book.  But then again, he does hammer the point home quite well.

Of course with all the current news about supply chain atrocities in China, one has to wonder if this book was rushed to print a little too hastily, without giving a fuller review of Apple’s global sense of ethics.  Just like Job’s own Macworld keynote speeches, this book was released with all the fanfare of a revolutionary Apple product.  But, unlike all his other products, which didn’t suck me in (Ipad, Iphone, Mac’s – not yet anyway), this posthumous one is the one that finally did me in.

Daikanyama T-Site

Usually when visiting a particular place that gets raving reviews from critics of contemporary design I am left feeling a bit let down.  This is especially the case in Japan, where critics often praise particular locations but neglect to mention just how overwhelming expensive those locals are (Omotosando, Roppongi, Ginza) and the type of clientele they draw.  A random sushi joint with earthy interiors and high quality service is great; bankrupting by budget for the month – not so great.

However, there are instances when something sounds so incredible, the idea so fresh, that I just have to see it in person, regardless of it’s upmarket location.  This was my mindset when I set out one Saturday morning for the new T-Site complex in Daikanyama.  Being a premier location for several embassies as well some of the more ritzy ateliers in Tokyo, I was a little hesitant when I exited the train station just a stop away from Shibuya on the Tokyu Tokoyo Line.  But after wandering a bit, getting lost several times in my search for the much talked about T-Site, I finally located the three low key two-story cubed shops of Tsutaya Books.

Instead of another high end stop in a sea of designer shoe shops and overpriced “vintage” clothing, what it turned out to be was a true sanctuary for the book lover in me.  A book/DVD/music store for those who really love going to those places, planting themselves, and staying for long periods of time.  And this is what I, and from what I could tell, other visitors did – becoming completely immersed in what this very unique Tsutaya could offer.

As a lover of books, the first thing that struck me about this Tsutaya was how the books were arranged.  Most Japanese book shops lump all the foreign (non-Japanese language) books into one area, and while that does make things convenient for people like me, it also lends itself to a sense of isolation from the rest of the customers – “Your a foreigner. You must go to this section!”  This store takes a far more inclusive approach, liberally mixing English, French, and other foreign texts throughout its shelves.  This was especially the case with the Art, Design, Architecture, Photography, and Automotive sections (which was overwhelmingly vast, with back catalogs of magazines and DVDs of high performance cars unobtrusively running on flatscreens).  Magazines and other periodicals are also sorted by subject matter, so that English language favorites like The Economist and The Financial Times are near like-minded Japanese publications, while style and fashion mags keep to their own.  Surprisingly, this Tsutaya’s selection of English Literature (Modern and Classic) was relatively slim compared to these other aforementioned categories.  But this barely made a dent in my overwhelming enjoyment of this space, even on a overcrowded  winter shopping Saturday.

There is a lot of seating –  music and DVD stations, reading tables, benches in every aisle – enough seating so that on a slow Tuesday morning one certainly might have his/her pick.  Of course on a weekend in Tokyo you might be hard pressed to claim one.  It also offers several options within the T-Site to grab a cuppa or catch a bite to eat.  An in-store Starbucks allows you to snag something to sip on while you peruse while a swanky second floor cafe/bar provides a more intimate setting for a meal or business meeting.

The music section offers almost limitless opportunities to listen on headsets to almost any disk on offer (through bar code reading music players).  Most interesting though is the the music memorabilia placed throughout, giving rock museum-like vibe to the stacks of CDs.  Signed guitars line the walls, and I found myself looking at them more than the music.  Music memorabilia isn’t all there is.  Rare (not for sale) editions of books stand behind glass throughout, giving the window shopper another reason to refrain from reaching for their wallet.

The overall layout of this Tsutaya encourages exploration, even entrapment, especially on the upper floors.  A beautiful central staircase, located in building #2, leads one past artwork and sculptures so homely and unretailesque that I actually thought I was trespassing beyond the bounds of the store.  I was surprised instead to find Anjin, a chic cafe/bar with back catalogs of Vogue lining the walls and a grand piano for live performances.

Instead of one massive building, three spaces are used connected by two upper level atriums that give you a much needed burst of natural light as you transfer between buildings.  One interesting problem that I did encounter was that, although the upper floors were easy to access, returning back to ground level is a bit of a maze.  Be prepared to get lost for a bit before you find a downward staircase or an elevator.

One more quick note,  T-Site’s Tsutaya doesn’t just offer you a unique experience through design, but also a rewarding one through a different approach to service.  Maybe, realizing that marketing towards youth no longer carries weight in an aging Japan, this Tsutaya actively employs post-fifty employees to man the shelves as passionate specialists on whatever you are looking for – and of course, I’d much rather have a gray haired grandpa locate a book by Kawabata than some punk hipster!

If you have some spare time, and can bare the uberchic confines of Daikanyama (代官山), step into a media wonderland at the T-Site’s Tsutaya Books.

The Japan Times ran a great piece about this new Tsutaya Books by Danielle Demetriou, please check it out here.

Daikanyama T-site Homepage

Book Review: The Civil War: A Narrative: Volume 1: Fort Sumter to Perryville – Shelby Foote

A sudden, cathartic end to one of my more mammoth undertakings.  And to think that two equally sized volumes remain!  Biblio-exhaustion is rarely so enjoyable.  As I read this massive tome, I came across an excellent article on The Millions about ‘Literary Stockholm Syndrome’.  In essence, it is the theory that long, seemingly tedious works, hold us hostage only as long as they offer glimmers of hope, perceived rewards in the face of so much despair.

That being said, Foote’s first volume in his epic trilogy does not strangulate and/or water-board torture you like Joyce’s Ulysses or Pynchon’s Gravity’s Rainbow.  Foote’s is a pleasant kind of torture, a pain like the back of one’s legs after a long day of mountain climbing or a prolonged period of calisthenics.

Perspective changes, whether between generals and common soldiers or locations throughout the different theaters of the war, occur with just enough regularity that no subject ever become stale.  The research is impeccable, while the combination of memorandum between major strategic players and anecdotal passages from all walks of life, make this a truly fluid (though time consuming) read.

Book Review: Look Homeward, Angel – Thomas Wolfe

Prior to reading this novel I had read reviews by both established authors and critics.  Harold Bloom gave the most negative of Wolfe, stating rather bluntly the Asheville native’s body of work exhibits no literary merit.  Others were more favorable, especially those coming from more renowned writers, most notably William Faulkner, who considered him one of the best of his generation.  So from the outset I was a bit perplexed on how to approach this novel.  However, after laborouring through this painfully long work, I can firmly place myself in the bloom camp, something which is difficult to do considering how obtuse the Yale Professor can be.

The problem is, that this mostly autobiographical piece of fiction forces the reader to have considerable difficulty pulling for the main protagonist, Eugene Gant.  That is a great shame, for the story desperately needs someone or something to draw us through the end.  The dysfunctionality of everyone within the Gant family, their inability to break from the grasp of their abusive dependence to one another, makes for a rather morbid reading.

There are some passages which hint at Wolfe’s Modernist writing style acumen, but these all too often are assembled in such a haphazard fashion without any semblance of having a necessary place within the overall coherence of the novel.  Describing a walk down a street approaching a local eatery, the pedestrians shown in wonderful stream-of-conscious detail, can be done with great effect, but only if the focus of such a book uses a more Ulyssesesque treatment of time (as in the passing of a single day).  It only causes confusion when the novel portraits the twenty plus years of a person’s upbringing.

Perhaps, with time, I’ll return to Wolfe and attempt one of his more concise works. But having slogged my way through this catastrophe, hoping on every page for something drastic to occur – a death, an accident, a simple twist of fate, anything other than the despondent hopelessness that hurls itself at you through nearly the entire work – I will gladly avoid this writer, and possibly anything that comes out of North Carolina, for quite some time.

Book Review : Japan Before Perry – Conrad Totman

For students hoping to grasp the political  and cultural underpinnings of Japan prior to the Meiji Restoration, Conrad Totman’s Japan Before Perry: A Short History is an excellent starting point.  This work deals mainly with abstract elements, focusing on aesthetic primary sources like early warrior tales, No theater, and popular treatises.  Surprising, very little is concretely discussed in terms of historical events.  Major battles are only vaguely described.  The rise of the Tokugawa Shogunate, its transition into power, is almost completely ignored.  Instead focus is placed on the socio-political trends leading to that epoch.

If battle maps, military maneuvers, and concise descriptions of daily life in early Japan are what you are after, then Japan Before Perry would not leave you satisfied.  However, if one is interested in understanding the dynamics between early Japan’s classes: aristocratic, warrior, peasant, and merchant – then this is a great introduction while remaining relatively concise.

Nanoblock

One particular Christmas present that stood out for me was an assortment of Nanoblock sets from my wife that rekindled the lost engineer in me and retaught the glory following simple schematics.  What Nanoblocks are, quite simply, are microsized LEGO’s with kits ranging from the intense Neuschwanstein Castle to simple wildlife.  Manufactured in Japan by Kawada, they are one of many Japanese products that don’t get enough exposure abroad.  I had been eying up a few of these kits for sometime so I was giddy when I got  Kinkakuji, Kaminarimon, and Hokkaido Ken sets given to me.

In order to get myself right into it, without causing too much initial frustration, I immediately started upon the Hokkaido-Ken set because of its small size.  Two and a half  hours later, with only some minor swearing, my little Nanoblock dog -complete with bowl and food- was complete.

Here is the product website: http://www.diablock.co.jp/nanoblock/

Christmas in Kizuki

Christmas in Japan can be both exhilarating and a minor bummer for those more accustomed to the gluttony of American-Style celebration.  The exhilaration, as for myself, comes from the knowledge that come Christmas morning I will be doing something unique in the particular neighborhood I live in – opening oodles of presents, listening to Christmas music, and taking a nap in a sea of wrapping paper. Christmas celebration might very well  occur elsewhere in Japan, but the scope in which it is played out in our 6 tatami-mat living room really is limited to my home and others in the expat community.  It is a custom that I am wholly unwilling to part with.

When I grew up in suburban Philadelphia, there was a certain collective awareness from Christmas Eve through Christmas Day that similar experiences were being had all over kid-dom.  Early Christmas Day you could most certainly sense the tension of children awaiting whatever signal it was that gave them permission to leave their rooms and venture into that Holy of Holies – the room of the Christmas tree and its cacophony of clashing gift-bowed deliverances from both Santa and parents.  As the morning progressed you could hear a pin drop through the streets until around 10 AM or so, until a clean basketball or a stiff new baseball mit had to, without regard to the wintry weather, be tried out for the first time.  It was always like that and I hope it is still like that now.

It is that collective feeling of anticipation-come-joy that is certainly missing here in Tokyo.  But all the same, the exclusiveness of my celebration of Christmas is also something I enjoy.  Whether that make me greedy, or elitist… well – sorry!

Green Space in the Metroplex

Finding places to walk, hike, climb, outdoor exercise in general, can be a harrowing experience in the Tokyo Metroplex. This is especially true if you lived part of your life outside of urban centers – outside of Asia. You do need a bit of an imagination, the ability to cancel unwanted visual (and auditory) information out, and take pleasures in simple things, in order to gain peace of mind here.

Imagination is needed to get beyond the fact that no matter how hard one looks, Tokyo does not have a Yosemite Park hiding at some yet undiscovered train station. Although the government has made efforts to allow for available green space, and the Tokyo Region doesn’t have a deficiency in this respect, that doesn’t mean there is a huge park in every neighborhood.

Recently I’ve been trying to better utilize the green space that is closest to my apartment. It took me quite a lot of exploration of my neighborhood before I was able to narrow down just what my options were. Last fall I kept in the back of my mind a walking park just about a 20 minutes stroll from my place. I now use this place at least twice a week to get some much needed, non-train station walking.

The course consists of a 2.4 kilometer (one way), well maintained path, mostly made up of a wooden boardwalk. Along the entire length of the course runs a small man made stream that features plenty of black koi as well as several more brightly colored orange/white varieties, and many ducks that make their way up and down the length of the channel. Most striking is the wide variety of flowers that line your way and change frequently from whites to dark purples to bright oranges.

There are frequent rest points and a bathroom at the halfway point. And eco-conscious walkers will be encouraged by the use of solar cells, stationed periodically, to power lamp posts that keep the walkway well lit through the evening.

Getting out of the city to the more rural mountain trails is sometimes a bit inconvenient, and during the weekdays a place like this does the body some real good. It has just enough natural (although man-made) points of interest to give a positive contrast from the drab blacktop most urban exercise offers you in this city.

Begin your walk at Motosumiyoshi (Tokyu Tokyoku Line), walk through Bremen Street all the way until you reach the first major road (this will take at least 15 minutes maybe more). Turn right and you will soon pass a Denny’s and come to a Yamaha Bike Dealership. Just past that the park begins; follow the maps that are posted frequently along the way. The path terminates near Mushashi-Shinjou Station, where there are plenty of places to catch a bite to eat or get a drink.

Traditional Inn along the Nakasendo

During the Edo era, there was two main routes from Kyoto to Edo (Tokyo).  The lower, most widely know route, was the Tokaido.  The other, more interior route, was called the Nakasendo.  Preserved along a portion of the Nakasendo are a series of old post towns that keep that old Edo charm focusing on traditional wooden architecture and small shops.

Narai, is one of the premier towns along this route and a great escape for Tokyo’s urbanites that really want to slow it down, way down.  The town itself, features only one primary lane about 500 meters long with wooden storefronts featuring unique overhanging eves.  Accommodation wise there are only a handful of 旅館 (ryokan, traditional inn) and homestays along the way, so I was naturally a bit excited when I found out me, my wife, and her mother and father would be staying at Echigoya, the oldest ryokan in Narai at over 200 years old and nine generations of family owned proprietorship.

An inn as old as Echigoya focuses on simplicity, quietude, and attention to detail.  No distractions here.  After checking in we are served green tea  and then are free to enjoy the sites and sounds of the wooden home.  After taking a soak in its small cypress wood bath and changing into yukata our course dinner is brought to us as each course is explained in detail.  I particularly enjoyed the koi sashimi with a miso paste sauce.  Following this we retired to our futon prepared rooms and fell asleep to the creeking of the wooden floors.

The morning breakfast is light but meticulously prepared.  Unfortunately we are out the door to our train by 8 AM… like most guests, a one night stay is usually the max (at around 20,000 Yen a night/per person one can see why).

Spending that whole day on train rides and exploring other post towns en route to Nagoya, we are happy to finally get on the Shinkansen to head back to Tokyo, and what seems like a bizarro world after only a day and a half in “old Japan”.