Usually when visiting a particular place that gets raving reviews from critics of contemporary design I am left feeling a bit let down. This is especially the case in Japan, where critics often praise particular locations but neglect to mention just how overwhelming expensive those locals are (Omotosando, Roppongi, Ginza) and the type of clientele they draw. A random sushi joint with earthy interiors and high quality service is great; bankrupting by budget for the month – not so great.
However, there are instances when something sounds so incredible, the idea so fresh, that I just have to see it in person, regardless of it’s upmarket location. This was my mindset when I set out one Saturday morning for the new T-Site complex in Daikanyama. Being a premier location for several embassies as well some of the more ritzy ateliers in Tokyo, I was a little hesitant when I exited the train station just a stop away from Shibuya on the Tokyu Tokoyo Line.
But after wandering a bit, getting lost several times in my search for the much talked about T-Site, I finally located the three low key two-story cubed shops of Tsutaya Books.
Instead of another high end stop in a sea of designer shoe shops and overpriced “vintage” clothing, what it turned out to be was a true sanctuary for the book lover in me. A book/DVD/music store for those who really love going to those places, planting themselves, and staying for long periods of time. And this is what I, and from what I could tell, other visitors did – becoming completely immersed in what this very unique Tsutaya could offer.
As a lover of books, the first thing that struck me about this Tsutaya was how the books were arranged. Most Japanese book shops lump all the foreign (non-Japanese language) books into one area, and while that does make things convenient for people like me, it also lends itself to a sense of isolation from the rest of the customers – “Your a foreigner. You must go to this section!” This store takes a far more inclusive approach, liberally mixing English, French, and other foreign texts throughout its shelves. This was especially the case with the Art, Design, Architecture, Photography, and Automotive sections (which was overwhelmingly vast, with back catalogs of magazines and DVDs of high performance cars unobtrusively running on flatscreens). Magazines and other periodicals are also sorted by subject matter, so that English language favorites like The Economist and The Financial Times are near like-minded Japanese publications, while style and fashion mags keep to their own. Surprisingly, this Tsutaya’s selection of English Literature (Modern and Classic) was relatively slim compared to these other aforementioned categories. But this barely made a dent in my overwhelming enjoyment of this space, even on a overcrowded winter shopping Saturday.
There is a lot of seating – music and DVD stations, reading tables, benches in every aisle – enough seating so that on a slow Tuesday morning one certainly might have his/her pick. Of course on a weekend in Tokyo you might be hard pressed to claim one. It also offers several options within the T-Site to grab a cuppa or catch a bite to eat. An in-store Starbucks allows you to snag something to sip on while you peruse while a swanky second floor cafe/bar provides a more intimate setting for a meal or business meeting.
The music section offers almost limitless opportunities to listen on headsets to almost any disk on offer (through bar code reading music players). Most interesting though is the the music memorabilia placed throughout, giving rock museum-like vibe to the stacks of CDs. Signed guitars line the walls, and I found myself looking at them more than the music. Music memorabilia isn’t all there is. Rare (not for sale) editions of books stand behind glass throughout, giving the window shopper another reason to refrain from reaching for their wallet.
The overall layout of this Tsutaya encourages exploration, even entrapment, especially on the upper floors. A beautiful central staircase, located in building #2, leads one past artwork and sculptures so homely and unretailesque that I actually thought I was trespassing beyond the bounds of the store. I was surprised instead to find Anjin, a chic cafe/bar with back catalogs of Vogue lining the walls and a grand piano for live performances.
Instead of one massive building, three spaces are used connected by two upper level atriums that give you a much needed burst of natural light as you transfer between buildings. One interesting problem that I did encounter was that, although the upper floors were easy to access, returning back to ground level is a bit of a maze. Be prepared to get lost for a bit before you find a downward staircase or an elevator.
One more quick note, T-Site’s Tsutaya doesn’t just offer you a unique experience through design, but also a rewarding one through a different approach to service. Maybe, realizing that marketing towards youth no longer carries weight in an aging Japan, this Tsutaya actively employs post-fifty employees to man the shelves as passionate specialists on whatever you are looking for – and of course, I’d much rather have a gray haired grandpa locate a book by Kawabata than some punk hipster!
If you have some spare time, and can bare the uberchic confines of Daikanyama (代官山), step into a media wonderland at the T-Site’s Tsutaya Books.
The Japan Times ran a great piece about this new Tsutaya Books by Danielle Demetriou, please check it out here.